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Sometimes it takes just one passionate, dedicated producer to raise the fortunes of an entire wine region. Brunello di Montalcino had Biondi Santi. Ribera del Duero had Vega Sicilia. Barolo had Gaja and Aldo Conterno. The commitment and unwavering effort of these wineries, coupled with great terroir and detail-oriented winemaking, helped spur a revolution in each of these now-famed appellations. In a similar vein, Northern Italy’s Marchesi Fumanelli family is intent on redefining the Valpolicella region with their soulful and inspired wines from their historic Squarano Estate.

First, some background info. Located in the Lessini Mountains, northwest of Verona and east of Lake Garda, the Valpolicella district features a series of verdant valleys and steep, vine-covered ridges. The name comes from “val polis cellae,” which means “valley of many cellars.” In addition to Valpolicella, the area is home to Amarone and Recioto. The primary grapes are Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella. Other varieties include Rossignola, Negrara, Trentina, Barbera and Sangiovese.

Fumanelli is the region’s largest and most important landholder. The winery is located on the Squarano Estate near the village of San Floriano in the heart of the Valpolicella district. This ancient site was originally cultivated by the Romans more than 2,000 years ago.

The Marchesi Fumanelli family has been vinifying wines in the Veneto since 1470. Today, they focus their attention on Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Classico Superiore and Terso Bianco Veneto. Their wines are produced exclusively from estate fruit grown in lime, chalk and clay soils. Their vines are closely spaced and yields are kept extremely low with some sites averaging 25 hectoliters per hectare. As with most of Italy’s top producers, Fumanelli combines traditional and modern techniques to preserve fruit and terroir characteristics while retaining a sense of regional tradition. Their wines are concentrated, flavorful, complex and unique.