Barbaresco Pajoré – 2017

EDITORS’ CHOICE

Wild rose, forest berry and camphor aromas mingle with star anise on this fragrant, full-bodied red. Combining structure and finesse, the delicious palate doles out ripe Marasca cherry, orange zest and licorice alongside firm, polished tannins. A fantastic wine. Drink 2023–2032.

The 2017 vintage of Pajoré from the Dellapiana family is another absolutely excellent Barbaresco in the making. Like the 2017 Nervo, this wine tips the scales at 14.5 percent and delivers a superb aromatic constellation of black cherries, gamebird, a touch of orange peel, woodsmoke, lovely soil tones, road tar, fennel seed, pretty spice tones, a touch of fresh oregano and a topnote of rose. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and impeccably balanced, with a superb core of fruit, excellent mineral drive and grip, ripe, well-integrated tannins and a long, tangy, complex and seamlessly balanced finish. This is outstanding juice. 2035 – 2085+

With a release of 3,800 bottles, the Rizzi 2017 Barbaresco Pajorè sees fruit from Treiso, one of the main appellation subzones. The Pajorè vineyard site offers distinctive aromas of red fruit, cassis and wild rose with delicate touches of tar, licorice and dark spice. The wine spreads far and wide over the palate, offering pretty intensity along the way. That characteristic Nebbiolo elegance is well articulated and framed by youthful tannins and bright acidity. I’d wait another two or three years before opening this bottle, but otherwise this is a solid medium-term Barbaresco. 2022 – 2033

A tight, focused 2017 with smoke, berry and strawberry aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, firm and focused. Better after 2022, when it will open up and show more.

Bright medium red. Terroir-driven aromas of raspberry, sour red cherry, iron, minerals and earth tones. Utterly seamless texture, but very precise, with a strong note of cinnamon adding complexity and nuance. The remarkably vibrant finish (for such a hot vintage) shows a refined tannins architecture and outstanding length. Drinking window: 2024-2035

Pale garnet. Classic nose, attractive with wild strawberry, tar and autumnal fruit. Tight and firm tannins with star anise, spiced earthy notes and crackling acidity. Looking nice and could turn into something rather special. 2022 – 2030