The persuasive charm and attentive embrace of the Sassetti family lures one to the vineyards, cellar and people who have farmed some of Montalcino’s finest vineyards for over a century. Four generations of the Sassetti family have made wine in Montalcino. Livio worked the historic property through the late 1970s, then purchased the 16 hectare vineyard of the now–famous Podere Pertimali. The Podere is in the Montosoli area, north of Montalcino, a particularly well-known area for the cultivation of the Sangiovese grape. Faithful to the teachings of the family, Livio and Lorenzo have over time renewed and expanded the vineyards, preserving the genetic heritage of the old vines and preserving the primigenie characteristics.
There’s something ethereal in the nose with flowers, cherries, strawberries and shitake mushrooms. Full body. This grows on the palate with super tannin and fruit structure. So much berry flavor and round, caressing tannins that fill your mouth. Tight at the end. This needs four to five years to show its true greatness. Try after 2023.
Pertimali’s 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is currently understated and youthfully poised, as peppery herbs are joined by young strawberry, with crushed stone minerality and earth tones. On the palate, silky textures usher in a ripe set of red fruits, carried well by juicy acids, and giving way to sweet spice and pretty inner floral notes. The finish is long yet maintains the wine’s fresh and vibrant persona, as hints of fine tannin mingle with wild berries and a pinch of residual acids, making the mouth water. The 2015 may not be a Brunello for the ages, but it sure is very easy to like today. It’s a beautiful wine. 2020 – 2028
Aromas of woodland berry, pine forest, truffle and dried herb emerge from the glass in this fragrant red. Full in weight but refined, the accessible palate offers dried cherry, black tea, star anise and a dollop of vanilla alongside polished tannins before a minty finish. Reflecting the hot vintage, it’s already approachable but still offers good midterm aging potential. Drink 2021–2027
John Szabo’s Benvenuto Brunello 2020 Report: The Seductive 2015s
LIVIO SASSETTI-PERTIMALI 2015 Brunello di Montalcino
From northern Montalcino on the Montosoli hill and its starkly limestone-based soils, this is firm and edgy, ripe and fragrant Brunello from the Sassetti family, high-toned, with bold cherry fruit and a dusting of cacao powder. Like many vintages from Sassetti, there’s a peppery-reductive edge born of that stony soil, some say mineral, yet extraction in this generous vintage was well-measured, making for a fine-boned wine, fresh in the Montosoli idiom, yet without hard edges. It’s still at least 2-3 years from ideal drinking, and should also age magnificently, like the best of 2015. It will no doubt emerge as a thrilling wine in time. Best 2023-2040. Tasted February and December 2020.
Rich and complex, this exudes ripe cherry, plum, floral, leather, iron and earth aromas and flavors. The refined tannins are beautifully integrated, and this feels almost approachable, yet there’s still a light grip on the finish, so decant now or age a few more years. Better than previously reviewed. Best from 2024 through 2043. 5,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.