Riesling Wineck-Schlossberg Grand Cru Alsace AOP – 2020

95 Points

The 2020 Riesling Wineck-Schlossberg Grand Cru is harvested on a steep parcel of poor granite, nicknamed the “black piste.” It was vinified in a concrete egg. A pale lemon note appears on the nose, with lovely light-footedness and a slender sinuousness. Coolness and clarity are clear-cut on the slim body. The finish is long with that lovely, cool, clear-cut lemon zestiness, precise, elegant. (Bone-Dry) 2026 – 2050

Jean-Baptiste and his daughter Laure Adam are, respectively, the 14th and 15th generation of the Adam family to lead this estate, which was founded in 1614. They still occupy the same house and work in the same old cellar. They have all their accounting ledgers going back to the French Revolution. But Laure adds that, by now, temperature control has been installed, even in older foudres. Jean-Baptiste Adam joined the estate in 1982 after studying in Beaune, working stages in Burgundy and Cahors and completing military service. He took over from his father, Jean Adam, in 1999. Laure Adam joined the estate in 2012 after studying in Rouffach and Colmar, completing an MBA in Bordeaux and working with Pelissero in Piedmont, Alsace and wine retail in London. Father and daughter run the estate and look after the winemaking, while Laure’s husband, Emmanuel Bogen-Adam, is the chief viticulturist. Since 2003, the estate has been certified biodynamic. They own 20 hectares of vineyards and lease and farm a further 10, mostly in Ammerschwihr and Ingersheim, with more holdings in Bennwihr. The Kaefferkopf Grand Cru is central to the family. They have labels that show wines made from this site going back to 1853 – even though Grand Cru status was not granted to the site until 2007. Clarity and brightness define the white wines, which beautifully reflect their respecitve sites. The estate is notable for Crémant and its Rieslings.

92 Points

Aromas of baked pear, apricot pie and quince followed by gingerbread, saffron and a hint of paraffin. Medium-bodied and refreshing acidity with a touch of phenolic texture on the mid-palate. Zesty and savory finish, layered with exotic spices. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

92 Points

This shows slight notes of flint, followed by white raspberry and guava. Then crunchy mineral jumps out, bringing a savory, salty even, undertow, adding another dimension here. Bracing acidity washes it all off, bringing notes of citrus fruit on the long, mouthwatering finish.