Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP – 2022

Good bright ruby-red. Blackberry, red cherry and dark plum on the nose, complicated by smoky minerals and an enticing whiff of blood orange. Enters fresh and juicy but with a distinctly luscious quality to its very ripe dark berry and cherry flavours, freshened by repeating nuances of blood orange. Closes broad and lush, with a saline element, hints of sweet spices and Montepulciano’s typical substantial tannins. This was obviously a good vintage for the Montepulciano variety. 2024 – 2029

Family-owned estate, Tiberio specializes in wines made from authentic Abruzzo native grape varieties. At 350 meters above sea level, twenty-three miles inland from the sea near the lovely medieval hillside town of Cugnoli, Riccardo Tiberio found a very old plot of Trebbiano Abruzzese vines, which, despite the variety’s name, is a rarity in Abruzzo. A high-quality variety has nothing in common with other Trebbianos, the 60 years old vines must have been a great sight for Riccardo, who then and there decided to change his and his family’s destiny by quitting his job as an export manager starting his own winery in 2000. Today the winery is run by son Antonio (viticulture) and daughter Cristiana (winemaking) and it makes some of Italy’s best white, pink and red wines.

Spicy to the core, the 2022 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wafts up with a blend of crushed cherries and wild berries, dusty violets, lavender and traces of incense. This is elegant in feel with silken textures and rich red and blue fruits. A crisp mineral sensation forms toward the close. The 2022 leaves the palate drenched in primary concentration, finishing with edgy tannins offset by a spike of residual acidity. Frankly, it’s incredible that this is Tiberio’s entry-level red, as the 2022 displays impressive depth and complexity. It’s also a tremendous value. This is the total package. 2025 – 2030

Cristiana Tiberio’s current releases are simply fantastic. They range from the “entry-level” 2022 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which can outclass many of the region’s best wines at a fraction of the price, to the spell-binding 2020 Colle Vota and stimulating 2021 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Fonte Canale (reviewed in my recent vertical retrospective). In 2023, Tiberio handled the conditions of the vintage very well, turning out a mineral-intense Pecorino and a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo that may be one of the most exciting young renditions of this bottling I’ve yet tasted. However, during my July visit in 2024, Cristiana and Antonio Tiberio were coping with a strange phenomenon. The vines had stopped producing after the pergola vineyards suffered from a combination of extremely dry conditions and cold air mass swept through the region in late April. As a result, canopies were extremely small, and clusters and berries were tiny. Cristiana Tiberio explained that she would not harvest the fruit from her older vines in an attempt to help them maintain their health for the upcoming seasons. The damage is sporadic, but she assured me that no amount of rain could fix the problems at this time. That said, there will be wine from 2024 but in much lower quantities and not from her older vines. While obviously grief-stricken over the situation, Cristiana Tiberio explained, “We have suffered and overcome worse conditions when we first started out.”

Sourced from a mix of older and younger vines, this has the variety’s classic plummy and chocolatey character at its core, wrapped up in a really fresh and zippy jacket, lively and finessed. Dark berries and cherries with chocolate and herbs lead to some salted plum and silky tannins. Delicious! 2025 – 2028

Impenetrable violet crimson. Gorgeous concentrated blackberry fruit with iodine touches and a hint of morocco leather. Lashings of juicy blackberry fruit framed by firm but polished tannins. Everything melts together on the finish. Very long and focused. 2025 – 2032